Nor'Easter Head Wrap / Ear Warmer
by Meriah Martin
Please note that this blog and post contains affiliate links and any sales made through such links will reward me a small commission – at no extra cost for you. You can view the disclosure for more information by clicking this link.
It's officially winter here in New England, and mother nature has come through with that cold air we never seem to get used to. It's a whopping 11 degrees out currently, and my ears are cold just thinking about it!
For those of you who aren't familiar with a Nor'Easter, consider yourself lucky. It's a storm that forms off the coast of the North Eastern United States (I'm in the Boston area). Those of us near the coast get rocked with these storms. They come with strong winds, massive waves and often times, more than a foot of snow. They're impressive to say the least. We've been lucky so far this winter *crosses fingers and toes*
The idea for this wrap came about because, well, its damn cold out there and my ears cant take it! I also usually wear my hair up and I'm not a huge fan of messy bun hats (there, I said it - that felt GREAT!), so a nice, thick ear warmer was really my best bet.
As always, I wanted to make something that was quick and easy. Who doesn't love quick and easy?! I think I succeeded in that with this wrap. It's a perfect pattern for beginners. If you can crochet a rectangle, you can make this wrap in just a couple hours.
I've also included some tips on how to adjust for any size and weight of yarn. Its super easy!
|It's so squishy!|
I've seen the stitch pattern I chose for this wrap called the Even Moss Stitch and the Baby Bobble stitch. Both are acceptable, and are created by alternating a HDC (Half Double Crochet) and Sl St (slip stitch) along each row. The pattern itself is a one row repeat, and once you get going its easy to find a rhythm and finish one of these in under two hours.
The stitch pattern pops and gives some great texture due to the nature of the HDC. When you create a HDC, a 3rd loop is formed on the back side of the stitch (pictured below). With a slip stitch before and after each HDC, the height of the stitch is pulled down, causing that 3rd loop to pop out and become much more pronounced
|3rd loop (HDC) in previous row|
Now, lets talk sizing. "Whats the average size of a *adult/kids/teens* head?" I've been asked and seen this question asked endless times. The answers are out there and I've taken a few minutes to put together a chart for you. This chart also has information for a hat, but for this purpose, we will ignore the hat length and focus on just the circumference. Keep in mind, this isn't an exact science. Everyone's head is different, but for the most part, this chart is a good representation of the average. If possible, measure the recipients head (maybe try without telling them first to really confuse them).
They key to making sure your wrap has a nice, snug fit (and this works for a hat too) is to make sure you leave some room for stretch. If the wrap doesn't stretch a bit to fit on your head, it will just end up falling down over your eyes. And this is no time for the BirdBox Challenge. You want the finished piece to be 2-3 inches smaller than the circumference needed - this of course depends on the stretch of the stitch you are using.
For this particular pattern, I went 2 inches shorter than needed. My head is pretty small and measures 20 inches, I made the length of mine 18 inches. You can adjust this as needed by adding or removing rows.
|I made this one using YarnBee from Hobby Lobby - it works in every color!|
Because this pattern is worked in a multiple of 2, its also easy to adjust the width and use any yarn and hook size you want. To do this, chain to the width you want then add two more chains. For example, lets say you are using a chunky yarn and a 6.5mm hook, simply chain to the desired width (we'll say 4.5 inches here to stay consistent with this pattern). If it takes you 10 chains to hit 4.5 inches, add two more chains. This will make your starting chain a total of 12 chains. You can then continue on with the pattern to the desired length.
Now that you have a basic understanding of the stitch and how to adjust the size, lets move onto the actual pattern, shall we?
- 150yds of Lion Brand Heartland yarn in Redwood (any yarn will work, just be sure to read through the tips above for adjusting the pattern for your size)
- 5.5mm crochet hook (as with the yarn, you can adjust hook size, just be reminded you will have to adjust the pattern
- Darning needle
- measuring tape *optional
Terms Used: (US Crochet terms)
- CH: Chain
- HDC: Half Double Crochet
- Sl St: Slip Stitch (worked very loosely)
- SC: Single Crochet
- F/O : Fasten off
Finished size (before sewing)
With suggested materials and pattern below
Length: 18 inches
Width : 4.5 inches
Row 1. CH 18
Row 2. Sl St in second chain from hook, HDC in next stitch, Sl St in next stitch. Repeat this pattern to the end of the chain, ending with a Sl St. CH 2 and turn
|End of first row (prior to chain two)|
Row 3. Sl St into first HDC from the previous row, HDC in next stitch . Alternate Sl St and HDC to the end of the row, ending with a Sl St in the turning chain. Ch 2 and turn
Each row will end with a HDC in the first Sl St from the previous row and a Sl St in the turning chain from the previous row. (picture below for clarification)
In the picture below, we are looking at the end of Row 4. Bubble 1 points to the Slip Stitch from the previous row, this is where we will work our last HDC of the current row. Bubble 2 points to the turning chain (ch 2). This is where you will work your last slip stitch
If you are having trouble working into the slip stitches from the previous row, you are most likely working them too tight. This stitch pattern works best with a loose tension.
Row 4 - 72: Rep row 3
Row 73: SC in first HDC and each stitch across
Fold the rectangle in half, and whip stitch both ends together.
|Now watch me whip, watch me ... I'm sorry. It was too easy|
Do not finish off when you reach the end. There will be an obvious seam, but don't worry, we're going to hide it.
Take your yarn, still attached to your darning needing and start to work it through the loops created by whipping the two ends together. Work the darning needle all the way to the end. We are not weaving in the end here, just moving the end, through the seam from one end to the other so we can pinch it shut.
|All the way down the line|
If you are having trouble figuring out which loops were from the whip stitch, I've called out the loops on the picture below. You have to really look, but you will see they go in a different direction from the others. I hope the photo below helps!
Pull the yarn all the way through, and pull tight. You will notice the work start to bunch up, this is good.
Pinch the fabric together with your fingers and work the darning needle up through the folds, this will help to lock it together. Do this a few times to secure the pinched fabric in place.
Weave in your ends, and viola! Your wrap is done and ready to keep those ears toasty warm all winter long. I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you did, I would love to see a photo of your finished product with the hashtag #NorEasterWrap . If you have any questions, feel free comment below or contact me on social media via Instgram or Facebook at Not Your Yiyas Crochet
This pattern and its images are copyright protected and the sole property of Not Your Yiyas Crochet. Please do not redistribute, transfer, or sell the pattern, or alter it to claim as your own. You may sell any products you create from this pattern. Please credit the designer by linking online listings to NotYourYiyasCrochet.com or tagging @Not_Your_Yiyas_Crochet on Instagram and Facebook or using the hashtag #NotYourYiyasCrochet