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Baby Dragon Amigurumi

Citron and Ember guarding their hoard

**To obtain a large print, no add, downloadable PDF version of this pattern for a low price (and if you want to support yours truly) you can get that by following This Link ** Thank you! 

Please note that this blog and post contains affiliate links and any sales made through such links will reward me a small commission – at no extra cost for you.  You can view the disclosure for more information by clicking this link.

If you know me, or follow me on social media you'll know that gaming is one of the few things I do as much as I crochet.  Recently, they remastered and released the first 3 Spyro games - and let me tell you, this girl has gotten in her Spyro time.  

A few nights ago, in a complete crochet slump, I spent the night playing the third installment, Spyro: Year of the Dragon - when the inspiration hit me.  I had chased down an Egg Thief.  He bobbed, I weaved (flew off a cliff, it happens).  When i caught him, an adorable baby dragon popped out of the egg.   I knew I needed 1, or 50 of these on my shelf.  So the next morning, at 4am, I set out to create my own.

Citron was finished by 7:30am and it was love at first sight

The below pattern written with the assumption you have a basic knowledge of crochet and amigurumi, please feel free to contact me directly with any questions (links at the bottom of pattern)


Terms Used:

CH:    Chain
SC:     Single Crochet
MC:    Magic Circle
INC:   Increase
DEC:  Decrease
BLO:  Back Loop Only
ST:     Stitch
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC:    Double Crochet
Sl St:  Slip Stitch
F/O:  Finish Off

Material List:

  • Size E/3.5mm Crochet Hook
  • Scissors
  • Darning Needle
  • Stitch marker (i prefer a piece of yarn in a contrasting color)
  • Polyfill
  • Worsted Weight yarn in two (2) colors.  I have used Loops and Threads Impeccable in Arbor Rose (primary color) and Aran (contrast color)
  • Felt in 3 colors for eyes
  • Fabric or Hot Glue

Gauge is not important as long as you are aware that the hook and yarn used will impact the size of your final piece.  As long you use a hook small enough and work with a tight tension throughout, you should have no issues.  

Finished size with suggested materials:
Height:  6.5 inches
Width:  4 inches


  • Everything is worked in the round unless stated otherwise
  • Repeat pattern between * * until the end of the row or specified
  • Stitch count for each row will be show in ( ) 
  • Have Fun!


Starting with the feet in your primary color:

Your two feet should look like this

Feet: (Make 2)

1.     6sc in MC (6)
2.     2sc in each st around (12)
3.   *1sc in next st, inc* (18)
4.     In BLO - 1sc in each st (18)
5-7.  1sc in each around (18)

F/O first foot, do not fasten off second foot:  

8.     Attach second foot (pictured below) with 1sc, and 1sc in remaining stitches around both feet (36)

Attach directly, do not chain or sl st

You will be doing 18 stitches around each of the legs for row 8, be sure to mark your first stitch with a stitch marker or contrasting piece of yarn.  This method leaves a small hole between the two legs, I usually sew this up with one of the strands from the inside a leg after I get a few rows into the body.

Continuing with the body:

Row 9:  Perfect time to sew that gap

9-13.  1sc in each around (36)
14.     *1sc next 5, inc* (42)
15.     1sc in each (42)
16.     *1sc next 5, dec* (36)
17.     *1sc next 4, dec* (30)
18.     *1sc next 3, dec* (24)
19.     *1sc next 2, dec* (18)
20.     1sc in each st around (18)

F/O and weave in ends.  Stuff firmly and shape. When stuffing, be sure to pack a little extra into the belly to get the cute pudgy shape. The body is now Complete 

Your body should look something like this



With primary color

1.    6sc in MC (6)
2.    2sc in each st around (12)
3.    *1sc in next st, inc* (18)
4.    *1sc in next 2 st, inc* (24)
5.    *1sc in next 3 st, inc* (30)
6.    *1sc in next 4 st, inc* (36)
7.    *1sc in next 5 st, inc* (42)
8.    *1sc in next 6 st, inc* (48)
9-12.  1sc in each st around (48)
13.   *1sc in next 6 st, dec* (42) 
14.   *1sc in next 5 st, dec* (36)
15.   *1sc in next 4 st, dec* (30)
16.   *1sc in next 3 st, dec* (24)
17.   *1sc in next 2 st, dec* (18)

F/O leave tail for sewing.  Stuff firmly and shape head


Arms:  Make 2

With primary color

1.     6sc in MC (6)
2.     2sc in each st around (12)
3-8.  1sc in each st around (12)

Stuff arm lightly before moving onto row 9.  Focus the stuff towards the bottom of the arm to give a little definition to the hand, but still able to keep flat at the top. 

9.     Fold arm in half and crochet SC across top to close (5) 

F/O leave tail for sewing



With primary color

1.     6sc in MC (6)

2.     2sc in each st around (12)
3.     *1sc in next st, inc* (18)
4-5.  1sc in each st around (18)

F/O leave tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.



With primary color

1.    4sc in MC (4)

2.    *1sc in next st, inc* (6)
3.    *1sc in next 2 st, inc* (8)
4.    *1sc in next 3 st, inc* (10)
5.    *1sc in next 4 st, inc* (12)
6.    *1sc in next 5 st, inc* (14)
7.     1sc in each st around (14)

F/O leave tail for sewing.  Stuff


Wings: Make 2

Starting with primary color

1.    Ch 17

2.    sl st in 2nd hook from chain, 1sc next 7 st, skip st, 1sc next 7 st (switch to Aran or contrasting color) ch 1, turn (15)

*Continuing with contrast color*

3.   2sc in next st, 1sc next 6 st, skip st, 1sc next 5 st.  Turn.  Do Not Chain (14)

4.   1sc in next 4 st, skip st, 1sc in next 4 st.  Ch 2, turn (8)

5.   DC next st, HDC next st, sc next 4 st, HDC next st, DC next st.  Ch 1, turn (8)

6.   sl st next 8 st (8)

Cut working yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, weave in other ends.    


Belly Patch:

With contrast color

1.    Ch 5, HDC in 3rd chain from hook and next 2, ch 1 turn (3)

2.    2 HDC in first stitch, 1 hdc in next, 2 hdc in last, ch 1 turn (5)

3.    2HDC in first stitch, 1 hdc in next 3, 2 HDC in last, ch 1 turn (7)

4-6  1 HDC in each, chain 1 turn (7)

7.    1 sc in each (7)

F/O leaving long tail for sewing 


Horns: Make 2 

With contract color

1.    4sc in MC (4)

2.   *1sc in next, inc* (6)
3.   *1sc next 2, inc* (8)
4.   *1 sc next 3, inc* (10)
5.    1sc in each (10)

F/O leave tail for sewing.  Stuff lightly



With contrast color

1.    Ch 37

2.   DC in 2nd chain from hook, sl st in next two* ch 2, DC in next st, sl st next two* (12 "spikes") 

F/O leave long tail for sewing


Thats all the pieces for your baby dragon!  Lets start putting them together.  

I like to start from the bottom up  (minus the head).  I've found with this patter the order below helps to make sure your bits and pieces sit evenly and centered.  If this doesn't work for you, that's totally fine, do you boo!

First, I attach the head, then move onto the tail, and to the belly patch.  Its important the belly patch is centered as we will use this to gauge where we put the arms.

After you've sewed on the belly patch, take a length of yarn in your primary color and and sew it over the belly patch to form the underbelly of your dragon.  Hide the tail

Once the belly patch is all set, I move onto the arms, these are added a bit to the front so they don't push the wings back.  I attach the arms two stitches from the belly along row 19 of the body.  

Attach the snout, using the belly patch and arms as a guide to center it.

The wings are then attached to the back.  I know no one likes to pin their pieces before sewing, but this bit is important.  You want to make sure your wings are even and at the same angle when looking at the dragon from the front, while not being pushed back by the arms.  Maybe it was just me, but I found this part a bit fiddly.

Finally, attach the spikes down the center of the back, head and tail.  use the long tail we left to sew this on.  The horns are attached to the top of the head around rows or 4 (depending on how you shaped you head).

Add the eyes using fabric glue or hot glue, and some lashes for added sass.    The eyes are made by cutting triangles from felt, then rounding out the corners.  Cut a circle out of black felt, then a smaller circle out of a bit of white felt.

The last, and FINAL step is naming your dragon.  

Citron and Ember, ready to take on the world!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!  Please contact me on social media  at Not Your Yiyas Crochet, via  Instagram or Facebook.  I cant wait to see your creations!


  1. I'm posting this today on Instagram. FUN pattern, but wanted to let you know that on the wings, round 3, there are only 13 stitches, not 14. Thank you for the adorable pattern!


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